In the latest of his monthly instalments, Charles Maclean gives his thoughts on the Malt of the Month: Smokehead Extra Black - 18 Years Old Charles also explores the rock'n roll lifestyle associated with this fine Malt Whisky.

Tasting Note:

The first impression is of light olive oil, with medicinal notes behind (Dentyne chewing gum; Vosene shampoo), and brief traces of extinguished bonfire. The latter are soon replaced by mineralic/maritime scents – chalk and seaweed. When water is added, the aroma becomes more herbal (sage, bog myrtle), with chalky dentists’ mouthwash. A fresh, clean, breezy nose. The taste at full strength is surprisingly sweet, with an oily texture, then like chewing charcoal. Mouth-drying, with a smoky aftertaste and a trace of cocoa. With water the oiliness goes, and the other tastes lighten. Well-mannered for a ‘Big Smoky’ and easy to drink.




Comment: An elemental flavour that evokes wild places and stirs the soul – like the best Rock-and-Roll!

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“Smokehead is cool”. “Smokehead and rock-and-roll are made for one another”. “Since it was launched in 2006, Smokehead has become iconic”… But where it comes from is a closely guarded secret.

We know it is a single malt from the Island of Islay – home of smoky malts. The label tells us this. But which distillery produced it? The ‘Big Smokies’ come from Ardbeg, Caol Ila, Lagavulin, Laphroaig and Port Ellen (now dismantled) Distilleries; Bowmore is not quite so smoky; Bruichladdich ‘Port Charlotte’ is very smoky, but still young; Bunnahabhain produces a small amount of peaty whisky, but is usually unpeated…

Part of the fun associated with the brand – certainly among the very many devotees of smoky malts – is debating where it comes from.

And Smokehead is fun – the very name tells you that, supported by its positioning as appealing to the ‘adventurous modern drinker’, and its upbeat contemporary packaging (which has won many awards, including a Gold in the Wine & Spirit Design Awards 2007). Last year it was the drink of choice at the Classic Rock Roll of Honour awards ceremony, where it was appreciated by superstars like Iggy Pop (‘Living Legend’ Award), Ronnie Wood (‘Outstanding Contribution’ Award), members of Iron Maiden (‘Band of the Year’) and AC/DC (‘Album of the Year’).

You get the picture?

But it is also an uncompromisingly good malt, itself the winner of many awards. Although we don’t know which distillery it comes from, we do know that the casks are selected and vatted by Gordon Doctor, the modest and supremely talented Chief Blender at Ian Macleod Distillers Ltd, based at Broxburn, near Edinburgh – owners of Glengoyne Distillery (not on Islay!) and of the excellent Isle of Skye blended Scotch.

Now he has created an 18-year-old limited edition of Smokehead. The extra years of maturation in refill American oak ex-Bourbon casks have tamed the beast somewhat, but like the rock icons mentioned above, the added mellowness and depth of character do not disguise the fact that Extra Black still has a mighty big flavour (see my tasting notes above). It is a virile Islay malt, but no threat to life and limb.

As might be expected, the packaging, designed by Navyblue, the Edinburgh and London-based agency responsible for Smokehead’s striking presentation, is equally arresting. The old-fashioned style of bottle is jet black, with silver letterpress type printed directly only the glass suggesting what might be encountered within. Single words such as ‘complex’, ‘kick’, ‘briny’, ‘powerful’, ‘smoky’, ‘oily’… You have been warned!

The bottle comes in what the designers call a ‘flight case’, a matt black metal canister that will withstand any amount of abuse, short of being run over by a truck. Each bottle is individually numbered on a paper capsule-seal, signed by Gordon Doctor, to emphasise its limited edition status.

Iain Weir, Ian Macleod Distillers’ Marketing Director sums up the thinking behind it: “Smokehead Extra Black is the natural evolution of the Smokehead brand. It is an 18 Years Old Islay Single Malt of the highest quality, presented in very impressive and distinctive top-end packaging. The strong and peaty flavours of the Malt demand your attention, and it was important that the design reflected this, creating an exclusive product with the wow-factor that really grabs consumers’ attention”.